7/4/08
Up early - drowned the shower due to a blocked drain. Most places have had bad showers and hard beds. Have had a room to myself for the last three nights and I have enjoyed it alot. Off to catch the bus at 7.40am to return to Kunming. It is a nine hour trip. The scenery doesn't change. Just a mixture of hills and fields fill of soy, rice or broad beans. Surprisingly I haven't felt travel sick at all on this trip despite stale smoke smell and a man in the back seat constantly coughing and hoicking out the back window - probably TB!.
Arrived back in Kunming at 5pm. Decided to wash some clothes but just about clogged the sink because of all the dirt from the gorge walk. Decided not to have 'over the bridge noodles' with the rest of the group and had a yummy pizza for dinner in my room watching the Chinese news.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
The morning of the rat!
6/4/08
Awoken at about 4.30am by a rat eating a bread roll in my backpack. The less than intelligent animal left the snickers and at a bread roll. I had a similar episode in Lubumbashi in Congo but that rat had more taste and went for the snickers and left the bread on that occasion. I chased this less than intelligent rat numerous times into the room next door but it kept coming back. Eventually I chucked the bread roll out the door, left the light on and went back to sleep in the hope of knocking the edge of a cold that I was getting. I have decided to join six others in the group and do a short cut down rather than another two hours up. The fittest four left at 8.00am and we left at 9.30am. The toilets are a tiled ditch which you squat over. Two can use the ditch at a time and a 1 meter square concrete slab gives you privacy (???) The shower was hot but you had to be careful with your soap because the drain hole was about 30cm x 20cm and there is no way to retrieve it if you did drop it. 
Our walk took us straight down to a road but it was still 2 hours of walking. We got to almost the tunnel when a mini van picked us up and took us to the meeting place with the fit group. Steve had to sit on the floor as their wasn't enough room. I got the front seat which was a bit scary - wrong side of the road and sheer cliff on one side and sheer rock on the other and lots of speed. After we all met up again we caught a public bus back to Lijiang. Went for dinner as same restaurant as last time we were here but Eric ordered this time and the food was alot better.
Awoken at about 4.30am by a rat eating a bread roll in my backpack. The less than intelligent animal left the snickers and at a bread roll. I had a similar episode in Lubumbashi in Congo but that rat had more taste and went for the snickers and left the bread on that occasion. I chased this less than intelligent rat numerous times into the room next door but it kept coming back. Eventually I chucked the bread roll out the door, left the light on and went back to sleep in the hope of knocking the edge of a cold that I was getting. I have decided to join six others in the group and do a short cut down rather than another two hours up. The fittest four left at 8.00am and we left at 9.30am. The toilets are a tiled ditch which you squat over. Two can use the ditch at a time and a 1 meter square concrete slab gives you privacy (???) The shower was hot but you had to be careful with your soap because the drain hole was about 30cm x 20cm and there is no way to retrieve it if you did drop it. 
Our walk took us straight down to a road but it was still 2 hours of walking. We got to almost the tunnel when a mini van picked us up and took us to the meeting place with the fit group. Steve had to sit on the floor as their wasn't enough room. I got the front seat which was a bit scary - wrong side of the road and sheer cliff on one side and sheer rock on the other and lots of speed. After we all met up again we caught a public bus back to Lijiang. Went for dinner as same restaurant as last time we were here but Eric ordered this time and the food was alot better.
Its all up hill from here!
5/4/08
Woke at 8.30am. Some of the group went to the middle gorge which by all accounts was a horrendous up hill grind back to the guesthouse. Four of us decided not to do it. It took them about 2 hours to get down to the gorge and back up again and they all complained when they got back about how hard it was. We sat around for ages waiting for our 2pm departure. Some of the group already have blisters but my feet are fine. 2om comes and Sweet takes my backpack right from the beginning of the walk. I am stuffed at the first bend. How am I going to make it!! but most of the group looked like they were struggling and having lots of stops. For the next two hours it is straight up hill with no relief apart from brief stops to get some oxygen. Steve and 
Sweet encouraged me along. The views were spectacular and the accent very noticeable and 
really fast. Reached the top and took some photos. From this point on it was fairly flat and curving around the mountain side. A very pleasant end to a hard climb. Arrived at the halfway house at about 5.30pm and we sat around recovering then went to our rooms. My room looks out over the gorge and has an amazing view, just breath taking. People would pay huge money for this view. Had dinner as a group, garlic baba's and banana pancakes tend to be a big hit. Off to bed at about 9pm.
Lijiang to Tiger Leaping Gorge
4/4/08
For the next three hours and 11km over a gentle 
incline but steady incline none the less we walked. I did ok and kept up well but the last bit was straight up hill to Tina's guesthouse and that did me in totally. The altitude totally sucks it out of you. Sweet, our local guide had to take my backpack. Finally made it to Tina's guesthouse short of breath but OK. No new major aches and pains, just the old horse riding pains. Spent rest of afternoon sitting around eating and drinking. Whitney and Dawn entertained on the guitair. At night (9.30pm) we did some Naxi dancing but it was rather repetative and boring so I went to bed. Still very windy and the whistling of the wind was very noisey so ear plugs in for and OK sleep.
Today was the day that I was most worried about. Don't get me wrong...I really want to climb Tiger Leaping
Gorge, it
just that I am not sure I can climb Tiger Leaping Gorge! Left Lijiang at 7.30am after breakfast. It was a three hour bus trip to the gorge in a bus owned and driven by a big Chinese woman and her skinny husband. At a toilet break she wanted my pants because she can't buy big pants in China. Mine - not for sale!! Continued on bitumen roads to the beginning of the gorge walk. The weather is very hot and windy. Walked through a tunnel and we were on our way - the point of no return. It was a bit disturbing to walk past bamboo stretchers as we went through the tunnel.
Gorge, it
just that I am not sure I can climb Tiger Leaping Gorge! Left Lijiang at 7.30am after breakfast. It was a three hour bus trip to the gorge in a bus owned and driven by a big Chinese woman and her skinny husband. At a toilet break she wanted my pants because she can't buy big pants in China. Mine - not for sale!! Continued on bitumen roads to the beginning of the gorge walk. The weather is very hot and windy. Walked through a tunnel and we were on our way - the point of no return. It was a bit disturbing to walk past bamboo stretchers as we went through the tunnel. 
For the next three hours and 11km over a gentle 
incline but steady incline none the less we walked. I did ok and kept up well but the last bit was straight up hill to Tina's guesthouse and that did me in totally. The altitude totally sucks it out of you. Sweet, our local guide had to take my backpack. Finally made it to Tina's guesthouse short of breath but OK. No new major aches and pains, just the old horse riding pains. Spent rest of afternoon sitting around eating and drinking. Whitney and Dawn entertained on the guitair. At night (9.30pm) we did some Naxi dancing but it was rather repetative and boring so I went to bed. Still very windy and the whistling of the wind was very noisey so ear plugs in for and OK sleep.
3/4/08
Up at 7am to catch a bus to Lijiang at 8am. This was a public bus and it 
was full by the time we got out of Dali. It was an OK trip over two mountain ranges. Lots of rice fields and fields of peanuts. Into Lijiang at midday then a short walk to the MCA hostel. This was worse than the last place. Very rickety and our floor had a noticeable slope towards the door. Went down town for KFC lunch then back at about 4pm. Discovered that our power plugs fit here so recharged my phone and camera. 
Off for dinner with the group to a genuine Chinese restaurant with items such as fried wild termite with mushroom, fried bullfrog with pickled pepper, fried honey bee with red chili, pig stomach with chili oil- sauce, mixed cactus and pig stomach. John ordered prawns and that is exactly what he got - a bowl of shrimps. We ended up sharing our dishes to even out the bad choices with the good choices. After dinner we went to a Naxi cultural show which wasn't that good. It basically showed their worship to heaven, ancestors and harvest. Afterwards back to the rickety hostel.
was full by the time we got out of Dali. It was an OK trip over two mountain ranges. Lots of rice fields and fields of peanuts. Into Lijiang at midday then a short walk to the MCA hostel. This was worse than the last place. Very rickety and our floor had a noticeable slope towards the door. Went down town for KFC lunch then back at about 4pm. Discovered that our power plugs fit here so recharged my phone and camera. 
Off for dinner with the group to a genuine Chinese restaurant with items such as fried wild termite with mushroom, fried bullfrog with pickled pepper, fried honey bee with red chili, pig stomach with chili oil- sauce, mixed cactus and pig stomach. John ordered prawns and that is exactly what he got - a bowl of shrimps. We ended up sharing our dishes to even out the bad choices with the good choices. After dinner we went to a Naxi cultural show which wasn't that good. It basically showed their worship to heaven, ancestors and harvest. Afterwards back to the rickety hostel.
Dali day 2
Decided last night not to go on bike ride today with the rest of the group. I am too sore and bruised from the horse ride fall so stayed in bed till 9am then walked to the three pagoda's which would have been 5km from the hostel. The weather was hot and dry. I have very cracked lips that the lip balm is not fixing. Took a tuk tuk type motorbike back to the hostel which cost 5 Yuan. 
Brought some banana and headed back to the hostel. Could not find the place where you can take a photo of the Three Pagoda's without paying 120 Yuan despite walking around the entire wall. Very disappointing. It started to rain and get very cold so went back to the markets in old Dali and brought a polar fleece replica (and got ripped off again!). Sat on the hostel balcony for the rest of the afternoon reading my newly acquired book waiting for the rest of the gang to return from their cycling trip. Eventually they did, cold and wet at about 5.30pm. Decided to eat two minute noodles in room and a banana for dinner then went out and got some more water, a snickers and some cucumber chip (which I brought by mistake - I was wanting the onion chips).
Brought some banana and headed back to the hostel. Could not find the place where you can take a photo of the Three Pagoda's without paying 120 Yuan despite walking around the entire wall. Very disappointing. It started to rain and get very cold so went back to the markets in old Dali and brought a polar fleece replica (and got ripped off again!). Sat on the hostel balcony for the rest of the afternoon reading my newly acquired book waiting for the rest of the gang to return from their cycling trip. Eventually they did, cold and wet at about 5.30pm. Decided to eat two minute noodles in room and a banana for dinner then went out and got some more water, a snickers and some cucumber chip (which I brought by mistake - I was wanting the onion chips).
Dali and the stupid horse
1/4/08
Arrived at Dali train station at about 8.30am. Lots of people getting off but we were the only foreigners. Caught a 'public' bus which was chartered by us to take us to the old part of Dali. Arrived at the MCA backpackers about 9.30am. Very average. Rooms not available
so left bags in the lobby and we went for a walk into the fortified walled old Dali. We were aiming to go to the Three Pagaoda's but the markets were too inte
resting. Fairly sure I got ripped off. Caught a tuk tuk like motor bike back to the backpackers.The afternoon was a horse ride to the Zhonghe temple. The ponies were small, maybe 12hh and 
I felt sorry for mine right from the beginning. As we got to the foot of the hill, mine stumbled into a drain and rolled itself and me down the hill. The guides weren't worried about the
horse but worried that I got back on the horse as soon as possible and with three men pushing me back on (literally) we were on our way again. I got back on but bruised and sore particularly my left calf and left shoulder and right inner thigh. It was a long way up and I thought my horse was going to have a heart attack but most of the horses looked like they were going to have a heart attack. It was 1 1/2 hours up and then we walked around at the top for about an hour then back down again but on a gentler track this time. I was actually led down by a guide. My bottom was sore at the end of the ride. 
Back to the backpackers for a hot shower and then off for dinner at the Tibet Cafe with Eric (our leader) where I had sweet and sour pork with rice. Horse ride 180 Yuan.
I felt sorry for mine right from the beginning. As we got to the foot of the hill, mine stumbled into a drain and rolled itself and me down the hill. The guides weren't worried about the
horse but worried that I got back on the horse as soon as possible and with three men pushing me back on (literally) we were on our way again. I got back on but bruised and sore particularly my left calf and left shoulder and right inner thigh. It was a long way up and I thought my horse was going to have a heart attack but most of the horses looked like they were going to have a heart attack. It was 1 1/2 hours up and then we walked around at the top for about an hour then back down again but on a gentler track this time. I was actually led down by a guide. My bottom was sore at the end of the ride. Back to the backpackers for a hot shower and then off for dinner at the Tibet Cafe with Eric (our leader) where I had sweet and sour pork with rice. Horse ride 180 Yuan.
Kunming day 2
31/3/08
Up early AGAIN and had breakfast with Dawn and then she and I went for a walk and almost made it to the Green lake again when (a) we couldn't really find it and (b) we were sick of trying to find it so we went back to the hotel to check out. Did some internet and then went to Walmart and got some moisturiser and some snacks for the train trip tonight. Walmart was a big store but sort of like the warehouse here. Afternoon was spent with Steve and John snacking at little restaurants trying to fill in time till 9.30pm when we to meet again to catch a taxi to the train station. Train station was very modern and clean. We were ushered onto the train 
before the locals which was great because they basically stampede the train. The guys put our luggage into the racks and we slept with our valuables. The beds were hard and narrow but still managed to get some sleep thanks to earplugs. I had Neil and Dawn above me in the three high bunk arrangement. It was a new exciting experience and slightly funny.
before the locals which was great because they basically stampede the train. The guys put our luggage into the racks and we slept with our valuables. The beds were hard and narrow but still managed to get some sleep thanks to earplugs. I had Neil and Dawn above me in the three high bunk arrangement. It was a new exciting experience and slightly funny.
Kunming
30/3/08
Up and had breakfast with Steve and John from last night. Then, off for a walk to the Green lake and Bird and Flower market. Attempted to find the market first but just couldn't find it so moved onto finding the lake. Found the stagnant "green" lake. It was OK but did have an aroma of stagnation. Left there and attempted to find the markets again and found them where we were this morning. Perhaps they weren't set up when we were there earlier. Brought two pairs of earrings that appear silver but I doubt it (20 Yuan each). Tried a bit of Steve's 'rat' kebab. Very spicy..too spicy, then more walking to the city square to have an ice-cream. 
Back to the Camellia hotel to meet new room mate who is on the same trip as me. Then at 6pm met the rest of the group; 1 Canadian, 2 couples from oz, 2 girls from the states, 1 NZ'er, Steve, John and I. Developed stomach pains at beginning of debrief at the restaurant which developed quickly in to diarrhoea. Two tablets later and a bit of a rest and I was feeling a lot better. Didn't have dinner that night.
Back to the Camellia hotel to meet new room mate who is on the same trip as me. Then at 6pm met the rest of the group; 1 Canadian, 2 couples from oz, 2 girls from the states, 1 NZ'er, Steve, John and I. Developed stomach pains at beginning of debrief at the restaurant which developed quickly in to diarrhoea. Two tablets later and a bit of a rest and I was feeling a lot better. Didn't have dinner that night.
Beijing to Kunming
29/3/08 Saturday
Awoke to a cold and misty, foggy, smoggy Beijing. I'm not going to see the city this time. Caught a taxi to Beijing airport. This driver had no English at all...not even num
bers. Waited at the airport for ages as I didn't know how long it would take to get to the airport in daylight hours. Got through checking with no worries and then to the gate for another wait. Beijing airport is very cold, as it is outside. The flight was with Air China in an old 757 with old style seats. My seat was broken so I sat basically facing the window as the back of the seat was lop-sided. I think there were three other non Chinese people on the packed flight. The guy beside me was trying to read pride and prejudice in English but I couldn't get a conversation out of him. Arrived in Kunming, got a taxi with no worries to the Camellia "hotel". Found a couple of Aussie guys and went out for dinner with the
m. Had peppered duck, some garlic bread and spring rolls.
bers. Waited at the airport for ages as I didn't know how long it would take to get to the airport in daylight hours. Got through checking with no worries and then to the gate for another wait. Beijing airport is very cold, as it is outside. The flight was with Air China in an old 757 with old style seats. My seat was broken so I sat basically facing the window as the back of the seat was lop-sided. I think there were three other non Chinese people on the packed flight. The guy beside me was trying to read pride and prejudice in English but I couldn't get a conversation out of him. Arrived in Kunming, got a taxi with no worries to the Camellia "hotel". Found a couple of Aussie guys and went out for dinner with the
m. Had peppered duck, some garlic bread and spring rolls.
Off I go...to the unknown
28/3/08 Friday
Oh the joys of living so close but yet so far. From Cairns I flew to Sydney and then back over Cairns to get to Beijing. Six hours of flying to get...back to where I began. I suppose that is what happens when you are using frequent flyer points. Sat on the runway in Sydney for fourty minutes and getting more panicky as the minutes went by. Thoughts like...are we waiting for my next plane to leave the gate so that we can get in went through my mind. Eventually made it in the terminal only to find that my next flight was also delayed an hour.
Arrived in Beijing an hour late and made my way through body scanners (for SARS) and then to immigration. Then caught a groovy little, extremely fast train to the other end of the terminal to collect my luggage. No quarantine inspection, just straight through the doors into a foggy 4 degrees. Waited for over an hour with smoking, spitting Chinese people for a taxi. When I did get into the taxi, the driver tried his English but it was all a bit too hard after flying for so long and I was well...a bit frozen. Despite having Chinese instructions and a map he still dropped me off in the wrong place and I had to walk a couple of blocks to find the right place. Got to bed at about 11.40pm China time. Bed very hard but slept well under two doonas/duvets.
Oh the joys of living so close but yet so far. From Cairns I flew to Sydney and then back over Cairns to get to Beijing. Six hours of flying to get...back to where I began. I suppose that is what happens when you are using frequent flyer points. Sat on the runway in Sydney for fourty minutes and getting more panicky as the minutes went by. Thoughts like...are we waiting for my next plane to leave the gate so that we can get in went through my mind. Eventually made it in the terminal only to find that my next flight was also delayed an hour.
Arrived in Beijing an hour late and made my way through body scanners (for SARS) and then to immigration. Then caught a groovy little, extremely fast train to the other end of the terminal to collect my luggage. No quarantine inspection, just straight through the doors into a foggy 4 degrees. Waited for over an hour with smoking, spitting Chinese people for a taxi. When I did get into the taxi, the driver tried his English but it was all a bit too hard after flying for so long and I was well...a bit frozen. Despite having Chinese instructions and a map he still dropped me off in the wrong place and I had to walk a couple of blocks to find the right place. Got to bed at about 11.40pm China time. Bed very hard but slept well under two doonas/duvets.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Friday, March 14, 2008
Soon and very soon
Well, it is two weeks till I leave on my next adventure. For the past two weeks I have been clambering around the hills of Cairns in hot sticky and sometimes wet weather in order to get "fit" for China. I haven't actually lost any weight but strangely after two weeks of doing the Red Arrow I feel that it is slightly getting easier. I tried the Blue Arrow once and couldn't walk for the next five days (my calf muscles were like concrete) so haven't gone near it again but will in the next couple of days.
Why all this fitness? I would like to do the walk into Tiger Leaping Gorge which by all accounts is a monster of a walk. Hopefully I can do it because there has been alot of snow in China this year and I am a bit worried that I may not be able to do the high track.
So with two weeks to go I am as organised as I can be. All I need to do is a bit more walking and hill climbing!!!
Why all this fitness? I would like to do the walk into Tiger Leaping Gorge which by all accounts is a monster of a walk. Hopefully I can do it because there has been alot of snow in China this year and I am a bit worried that I may not be able to do the high track.
So with two weeks to go I am as organised as I can be. All I need to do is a bit more walking and hill climbing!!!
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